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| Shiba Inu Tips
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What to say about the Shiba Inu? They have extreme beauty and an extreme spirit to match. Many people fall quickly in love with the cute wolfy, foxy face and the ice cream swirl tail, but beware of this devil dog ^.^ (otherwise called Not For Everyone Dog). Before getting a Shiba Inu, it is important to do some research on the traits of the breed to see if they will fit into your lifestyle and household. When walking my Shiba Inu, Sephy, I meet many people who fall in love with his look and his nice small size. However, most tell me that after looking the breed up on the web, there is just a wee bit, too much "devil"; in the dog!
If you have already gotten a Shiba, then congratulations!!. Pat yourself on the back and buy several really big bags of your favorite chocolates - you will need it ^.^ Just make sure not to give your Shiba any - chocolates, some nuts, and raisins, can be poisonous to dogs. When I first got my male Shiba, at about 10 weeks old, he totally drove me insane! He was a ball of energy that wanted to run, jump, chew and get into mischief every second of the day. He is still a ball of mischievous energy today but at least under control. Here are some of the things I wish I knew when I got my Shiba:
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The little Shiba is very curious and will get into trouble every chance he gets. So to save yourself a lot of agida, and to save your Shiba from stress, set up a schedule which very importantly includes crate time, play time, walk time, and handling/grooming/cuddling time.
Always keep a leash on your Shiba if he is in a non-dog proof area. This will help you control your ball of energy without resorting to chasing games. When your Shiba tries to run away, all you need to do is step on the leash. Please use a regular, thick (1 inch wide), flat collar and not a training collar (choke chain, prong collar). Shibas have short tracheas and will choke if your collar is too thin. Make sure you cut off the loop on your leash so that it doesn't catch on anything around the house. Start with a longer (6 feet), light leash and shorten it according to the level of control you have on your Shiba. Of course once your Shiba matures and is better behaved, you may switch to a leash tab or remove the leash altogether. It is best to use a 6 foot leash on walks and not the flexi-leash. The 6 foot leash gives you better control of your Shiba and is necessary to keep your Shiba safe when he decides to go chasing after dogs, cats, or squirrels.
When your Shiba is out and about in a non-dog proof area, make sure you have the time and attention to supervise him. If you don't he will definitely get into some type of trouble! If you are around, you get to teach him right from wrong without too much damage to your furniture and belongings. If you do not have the time then crate him (if you are not home) or put him on a tie-down (if you are home but just don't have the time to supervise). If your Shiba is not crate trained, here is what the Humane Society of the United States and the American Dog Trainer's Network have to say about crate training.
At night, I crate my Shiba in my bedroom. Keeping your Shiba with you in the bedroom will help with the bonding process and will show them that they are part of the pack.
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The Shiba inu is a primitive breed. They will, with very high probability, respond with force if you use forceful techniques (aversive techniques) to train or control them. Using aversive techniques will also cause them to lose trust in you. I have worked with and talked to some traditional trainers (trainers who mostly use aversive techniques) and while it is possible to train a Shiba inu using aversive techniques, you must be very masterful at executing those techniques and you must have the temperament and willingness to apply the proper force needed. For a Shiba, this can turn out to be quite a lot of force. If you do this, you run the risk of breaking your little Shiba's awesome spirit and you really don't want to do that.
It will be easier and less stressful (on both you and your Shiba) to start training with reward based techniques. I started out with aversive training techniques and after many trials and tribulations, I only use reward based techniques with my Shiba, today. With a Shiba it is also important to establish yourself as the leader of the pack by controlling his resources through the Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program. This simply means that your Shiba has to do something for you before he gets any resource. Any bullying will be ignored or will result in the removal of the resource.
Note that many people mistake "becoming alpha or pack leader" as aversive based training. Aversive trainers may tell you that for a difficult, strong-willed dog, like a Shiba, you must use stronger, punishment based methods in order to "show him who is boss". This is untrue. My Shiba is extremely strong willed and can be quite difficult but he responds much better to reward techniques. Be careful of advertisements for 10 minute Shiba training programs and the like. Shibas are independent and stubborn, making them more difficult to train than many other breeds. There are no miracle cures in Shiba training.
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This is something that is always emphasized by Cesar Millan (the Dog Whisperer) and it is extremely important for a Shiba. If you interact with a Shiba with nervous, submissive, fearful, or otherwise weak (non-assertive) energy, the Shiba will take advantage of it and start acting out. Anger, impatience, frustration, and all other non-calm energies will only amp up your Shiba and cause him to exhibit even more extreme behaviors. In order to achieve calm, assertive energy, you must first overcome whatever fears you may feel towards your Shiba. This is much easier to do if you have achieved good bite inhibition (see below). Also, get help online or from a trainer in your area.
Some techniques that helped me remain calm and assertive include: taking deep breaths and focusing on breathing to remain calm; actively thinking of something else whenever I start getting stressed about what my Shiba might do; using the "tsch" sound that Cesar Milan uses (no, it is not a magical sound for calming dogs) to help remind myself to stay calm and assertive; walking with an assertive posture (shoulders back, head up). Also consciously make sure that you are not putting tension on the leash. The thing that helped me most was to imagine the worst that my Shiba could do (in the leash biting case - bite my hand or arm), and then consider if I could deal with that. I decided that for my Shiba, I could deal with some bites and that if he did that I would hold firm, get him home as quickly as possible, and then put him directly in a time-out area. Once I had a plan for dealing with the worst, I became less fearful. Once my energy improved, my Shiba's behavior also improved dramatically. Please note that I refer to Cesar Millan here only with regards to the importance of controlling the energy you project to your dog. Please only use reward based techniques with your Shiba.
Shibas can be quite mouthy and many have low bite thresholds (i.e. they resort to biting/aggression even with fairly low, seemingly harmless stimuli). My Shiba can get mouthy when he is excited or frustrated, when you restrain him, when you try to force him to do something, etc. Because of this, it is extremely important to train your Shiba to have good bite inhibition. I have found that hand-feeding is a great way to teach your Shiba good bite inhibition. Hand-feed your Shiba at least some of his kibble every day. If he bites too hard when getting his food, do a sharp ouch or yelp and ignore him for a few seconds then start hand-feeding him again. If he is taking food from you gently then praise him and keep the food coming. You can also combine hand-feeding with training and handling sessions. Hand-feeding also helps get rid of resource guarding issues so it is a good thing to continue this practice throughout your Shiba's life.
You can also get Ian Dunbar's book After You Get Your Puppy, for an overview of bite inhibition, and how to best train your dog to have a soft mouth. Note that Ian Dunbar's book may come across as somewhat alarmist and you may feel that if you don't meet his somewhat unrealistic socialization and training demands, things are going to go badly. I just try to ignore the alarmist talk and focus on the bite inhibition and handling exercises which are quite useful. Believe me, you will be thankful that your Shiba has a soft mouth. Because my Shiba has good bite inhibition, we were able to solve many of his problems which would have been difficult to deal with if he was biting at full strength.
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Shibas can get shy and stressed about being handled. This is especially true of sensitive areas such as paws, muzzle, and ears. While taking care of your Shiba, you will need to handle these areas when trimming his nails, brushing his teeth, or cleaning his ears and paws. It is therefore extremely important to get your Shiba used to handling as much as you can especially when he is young and more open to new experiences. Make sure that handling is a positive experience accompanied with a happy voice and many treats. Make the handling sessions short and stop before your Shiba gets stressed. Ian Dunbar's book After You Get Your Puppy has some helpful lessons on how to desensitize your dog towards handling of sensitive areas.
In addition to grooming demands, handling exercises become extremely important when visiting the vet. I have been through a fair number of vets with my Shiba and he is often stressed and mouthy with vets. The vets that work best for a Shiba are the ones who will spend some time in getting to know your Shiba and who will combine the physical examination session with lots of treats.
Note that in addition to handling, Shibas also dislike restraint. Some trainers and books suggest using restraint to settle your dog down. Restraint does not work with my Shiba. Instead of calming him down, he just gets more stressed. I suggest treating restraint like any handling exercise. Make it fun and short. Stop before your Shiba gets stressed. Definitely stop if he is already stressed and trying to get free. Note that this is counter to the advice of some trainers who only release the dog when he stops squirming, mouthing, or whining. While this makes sense in cases where the dog is not really stressed, and is only trying to get back to what he was doing, it does not make sense for a really stressed out dog who is afraid of/dislikes restraint. You must make your own judgment as to which group your Shiba falls into. Nevertheless, it is better to err on the side of caution, and make restraint fun and stop before your Shiba starts misbehaving. It is best not to use restraint as a discipline method. Use time-outs (see below) instead. When I say restraint here, I mean simple hugs, or picking up your Shiba - I DO NOT mean alpha rolls. DO NOT perform alpha rolls on your Shiba or on any of your dogs. At worst you will get bitten, and you will most likely lose your Shiba's trust. When I didn't know any better, I tried alpha rolls and they DO NOT work well with a stubborn, strong-willed dog like the Shiba.
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Shibas are extra sensitive to handling and restraint. Make sure that grooming is introduced very slowly to a Shiba and always make it a fun experience. Make grooming sessions very short and very rewarding initially. As your Shiba gets more accustomed to it, you may start to lengthen the sessions. If your Shiba starts to get stressed at any time during the session, you should stop and pick it up at another time. Never force grooming on your Shiba, or he will grow to hate it, and it will be unpleasant for everyone involved.
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Use a nail grinder and save your eardrums.
Most dogs and certainly most Shibas hate nail trimming. Nail trimming is scary, unpleasant, and can often be painful when you cut into the quick of the nail. Most Shibas will "entertain" you with the vocal stylings of their Shiba scream throughout the entire nail trimming session. They will mouth, wiggle, and try to stop you in any way they can. As a result, nail trimming can be very stressful for the groomer and this in turn will stress out your Shiba even more. To save your eardrums, your sanity, and your Shiba's sanity, I highly suggest using a nail grinder. I am currently using the Dremel Minimite because it is cordless (don't have to worry about your Shiba chewing the cord) and small (this allows for better control while grinding and shaping a nail).
Bath: Brush often, use bath wipes, and play the water hose game.
Unless you are planning to show your Shiba, it is unnecessary to give them too many baths. Shibas are naturally clean and should only need 1 or 2 baths per year. Brushing about once every week is sufficient to remove dirt in the fur. Brushing is also necessary to remove any loose/dead hair. Shibas blow their coat twice a year and it is necessary to brush everyday during those times. My Siberian breeder told me that if you brush often, you can reduce coat blowing to once a year instead of twice. The Furminator is highly recommended by many Shiba owners. It certainly works really well for me.
My Shiba really hates baths and he gets extremely stressed being in the enclosed bathtub area. Instead of giving him a traditional bath, we play the water hose game with him. That way, bathing becomes a fun experience. You can also give your Shiba a wipe-down with a wet rag or with bath wipes when he has a lot of surface dirt or mud. I usually give my Shiba a wipe-down after he has been to the dog park, or doggie daycare. Shibas often get grabbed, a lot, in the neck area by other dogs, so it gets dirty with saliva and dirt after a vigorous play session.
Dental care.
I brush my Shiba's teeth 3 times per week. I am currently using the Petrodex poultry toothpaste. I first get my Shiba to lie down on his side before brushing his teeth. I have found that he fidgets less when he is lying on his side. I use a medium brush to clean his canines and molars, and a smaller brush to clean the smaller middle teeth. My Shiba does not like large toothbrushes, especially when I am trying to clean his molars. There are also finger toothbrushes, but I found them difficult to use and they keep falling off my finger. A glove toothbrush (Petrodex Finger Toothbrush Gloves) is a better alternative and may give you greater control.
I also give my Shiba a Greenie every night before he goes to bed. When you first introduce Greenies to your Shiba, please supervise closely and make sure that he chews properly and does not try to swallow any big pieces. It is also a good idea to bring your Shiba into the vet to get his teeth professionally cleaned once every year. Dental care is crucial if you want your Shiba to enjoy a long life.
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A Shiba is high energy and will get into trouble if you do not keep him busy. Make your Shiba work for ALL of his food. Don't just present food to him on a silver platter or a silver bowl ^.^ Use his daily rations of kibble and treats for training and handling. If there is food left over, stuff it in toys so that he has to work to get it out. Also make sure you have play-time with your Shiba. Some games that my Shiba likes to play with me include the flirt pole, the water hose game, and sometimes soccer. When you start with any new game make sure to make it fun by handing out lots of treats for effort. Once your dog understands the game you may only give treats for the more stellar performances. Remember to always make play-time fun, so make sure to move slowly and treat well. Shibas get bored quickly, so keep your play sessions short and your Shiba will keep wanting more. Make sure you always have control of play-time, which means that you own all the toys and you decide when to start and stop games. Play-time can be very useful in training your Shiba to calm down when he is overly excited, and to pay attention to you even when he is in an excited state. Other good ways to burn your Shiba's energy include neighborhood walks, walks in the park, doggie playgroups, and doggie sports.
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Shibas like their freedom and they like being with their pack. Since a time-out takes away both of these things, it is an extremely effective method of discipline. To give your Shiba a good time-out, make sure you put him in a really boring room (no low windows), where he can't misbehave (i.e. there is nothing in the room that he can play with or chew on). Nobody is to give your Shiba any attention during this time. My Shiba's time-out area is in my laundry room.
I use time-outs for only extreme misbehaviors. For example, some of my Shiba's time-out offenses include mouthing on humans, any kind of humping, and leash biting. When my Shiba starts or even thinks about starting one of these actions, I will give him a stern NO or ack ack. If he stops, then I praise him and let him continue with his regularly scheduled programming ^.^ If he continues with the behavior, then I say TIME-OUT and quickly remove him to his time-out area. I usually have short time-outs to begin with (approximately 1 minute). If my Shiba continues the bad behavior after he gets released, then I lengthen the next time-out significantly (15 minutes). It is best to be flexible and to tailor the time-out duration according to your Shiba's temperament and behavior. Some trainers do not believe in long time outs while others may ignore their dogs for hours or even days. Do not use time-outs for training mistakes or lack of motivation.
Shibas are a primitive breed and may lose control of themselves more easily than other breeds. When a Shiba loses control, he is no longer thinking, and he is no longer listening to you. He is acting based on instinct and may exhibit extreme behaviors. A time-out is also a good way to calm your Shiba down because it removes him from the situation that caused him to lose control. It may also be possible to snap your Shiba out of his frenzy by making him focus on a complex physical activity, e.g. walking briskly, or by making him be aware of his body by massaging his neck and/or his body. What works will depend on your Shiba and on the particular situation. If you are having serious problems with your Shiba losing control, it is best to consult a professional trainer.
The most important thing to remember while bringing up a Shiba is that "you are not alone"! Your journey with your Shiba will be filled with many triumphs and much happiness, but there will also be challenges and pit holes on the road. Sometimes you may feel discouraged with your Shiba's behavior or with his performance in obedience class. You are not alone! There are many support groups out there where you may post your questions. I also find it very helpful to just visit these groups whenever I feel discouraged or when I feel like my Shiba must be from some mutant strain of devil Shiba. Don't think you are a bad dog owner/trainer when (with a Shiba it is a when not an if) your Shiba behaves badly. Many other Shiba owners are facing the exact same problems. A Shiba is not a Labrador or a Golden Retriever. Handling bad behavior is part of the joy of owning a strong willed Shiba. Also remember that with proper rules and training, your Shiba's behavior will improve with time.
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5. Handle your Shiba as much as you can